I just ordered the field guide. I must have some appropriate yarn around here. But first the one thing that must get done today. Then I'll go treasure hunting!
Years ago I made a shirt with three sleeves. Intentionally. One right sleeve, one front left sleeve, and one back left sleeve. I could slide my left arm into either sleeve and let the other one hang. It was meant to be avant garde, and I was disappointed when not a single person commented on it.
As for knitting, I’ve lost count of how many sleeves I’ve knit for some sweaters. After five, they go in time out for a while.
I don't knit set in sleeves the traditional separate way and sew them in. I pick up stitches around the armhole and knit from the top down doing short rows as I go until I reach the armhole. This is a long tutorial but you and your subscribers may find it helpful. I have shared this with friends and on Knitting Paradise with positive feedback. Marilyn Robinson
KNITTING SLEEVES DOWN
When you are instructed to bind off stitches on the shoulders to get your slope, don't bind off. Place the stitches on a holder, preferably a short circular needle. You usually have this sloping bind off in three sections. When you put the hold stitches on your hold needle, slip the first stitch of the next row before you knit or purl across. When you have all the shoulders done, match the correct ones and either do a three needle bind off or Kitchener stitch. The three needle bind off gives you a more stable shoulder line.
Leave the sides seams open. Using a circular needle pick up your sleeve stitches along the armhole edge as follows.
With the right side of your work facing you, pick up one stitch in each bound off stitch worked at the beginning of the armhole shaping of one front section. Continue picking up stitches all around the armhole and end by picking up one stitch in each bound of stitch on the back section.
To correctly space the stitches, mark the armhole edge (excluding the bound off edges) at one inch intervals. In each one inch space pick up the number of stitches that equals your stitch gauge. For example, with a five-stitch-per-inch gauge, pick up five stitches between each set of markers.
Next divide the number of stitches on your needle by three. If the number is not evenly divisible by three, allot the extra stitch(es) to the center third which comprises the top of the sleeve cap.
On the wrong side, purl across two thirds of the stitches on the needle. Turn and knit across the center third of the stitches then knit the next stitch on the needle.
Turn and purl back across the center stitches and purl the next stitch on the needle. Continue working this way, making “short rows” by working one extra stitch at each end, turning to work back after doing so, until you are working on all the picked up stitches. When this is done, you will have completed the sleeve cap smoothly and have reached the underarm.
Refer back to your pattern to note the number of stitches you would have cast on had you begun at the cuff. Subtract this number from the number of stitches you have on your needle. This gives you the number of stitches you need to decrease as you work down the arm to the cuff. Make these decreases in pairs at each end of a single knit row; at the beginning k1,sl1, k1. psso; at the end k2tog then k the last stitch. Calculate how many rows to knit and purl evenly between decrease rows using your gauge as a guide. When you reach the length you need, allowing for the length of the cuff, k2 p2 rib the cuff as long as you need it
or do a decorative cuff, whatever works for you.
You can also do the sleeves in the round once you get to the underarm, marking the underarm seam and decreasing ending up using double pointed needles or magic loop when you get to where it is too small for a 16 inch circular needle. I suggest binding off in Jeny Staiman's "Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off".
It is a nice touch to do the center underarm stitch knit through the back loop or purled to make it look more like a seam.
I have made set-in sleeves from the top down with short rows as you describe, but I prefer the look of a sleeve knit separately and sewn in. Knitting from the bottom up ensures that a directional stitch pattern runs in the same direction on both the body and sleeves. It also creates a cleaner join when matching stripes.
I have made so many mistakes in my knitting life that I can’t remember them all. In all cases, I’d take a deep breath and then start frogging. I’m in love with mosaic knitting. I just finished my first mosaic shawl. I still need to block it, but I just love the design. I started it through a workshop with MDK. I also have my eyes on the Waffle sweater.
Mosaic knitting can be an addictive technique. I've used it often, and it never seems to get old.
And thanks (?) for the link to the Guardian article. I'm horrified but not surprised. It seems like another iteration of the Proud Boys or the Oath Keepers.
Happy, Happy Birthday Olga!! Sandi, sorry about the sleeve shenanigans. I don’t know how your sleeve was constructed, but if possible I would maybe have tried to exaggerate the large size by reworking the bottom half as a kind of flowy bell sleeve - but there are lots of variables that would make that a bad choice.
Thanks for the suggestion, Cate. Unfortunately, This fabric (DK weight cotton/linen) wouldn't make a light, flowy bell sleeve. I don't think I'd have ended up with a cardigan I want to wear if I went in that direction.
I thought as much! I’m clueless (and inefficient) enough that I would probably have tried it to the disastrous effect that you already know would occur.
Thank you for sharing your knitting as well as your deep insights Sandi. I appreciate it so much. I am venturing into a set in sleeve design (top down) myself and good to hear some designer wisdom from you. About history being left out in school textbooks, I am constantly amazed and educating myself too. This one goes into my queue as well. Thank you.
Happy birthday to your beautiful mom! Brain drain at the end of the day is all too familiar. Completely understand that plight! Great newsletter, Sandi!
For the sleeve issue, I would've been disgusted with myself and unraveled it and set it aside for a break. Then probably go back to it when I felt more confident. I did that with a sock that somehow, kept getting wider and bigger, so I unraveled it all and started over with a different sock pattern. I avoid the old pattern and don't even try to figure out what went wrong.
If I set a project aside, it could be years before I find my way back to it. If I want to finish the project (and I do!), I need to immediately get back on the horse.
Ooh! Looking good Olga! Your beautiful smile makes me smile! Happy Birthday!! :-)
Sandi, Your Three-Sleeved Sweater title was an excellent bit of click bait for me! My little mind was picturing sweaters looking like elephants! :-) Bless you for telling how it happened. I have done similar things and know that 'how can I make this work' time before ripping it out. Usually once you are back to square one, it really is worth redoing. I often have to alter the shoulder portion of garments I knit for myself. I am in the habit of keeping a similar styled item of clothing that fits me close at hand to 'measure' against as I knit. This habit has served me well for things like sleeve fit, but also neck openings, shoulder seams and depth of 'v's and sweater lengths. Like you. I generally prefer a longer length, too. Looking forward to seeing how your waffle sweater comes along! Pretty knit pattern!
Thanks for sharing what you are reading, I wonder what kids will be taught about this time in the future? I wonder what is being taught about it now?
It has been many years since I had a child in school, but I'd love to be a fly on the wall in a high school civics or government class today. Do they still have those?
I feel your three-sleeved sweater and have some five-saddle shoulder sweaters that would get along with it quite well.
And I think I might be casting on the Waffle Pullover myself. It looks perfect!
Five saddles and three sleeves would make for an interesting sweater indeed.
And let me know if you decide to pull the trigger on the Waffle Pullover. We can have a mini knit-along!
I just ordered the field guide. I must have some appropriate yarn around here. But first the one thing that must get done today. Then I'll go treasure hunting!
I'm excited to see what yarn you choose.
Years ago I made a shirt with three sleeves. Intentionally. One right sleeve, one front left sleeve, and one back left sleeve. I could slide my left arm into either sleeve and let the other one hang. It was meant to be avant garde, and I was disappointed when not a single person commented on it.
As for knitting, I’ve lost count of how many sleeves I’ve knit for some sweaters. After five, they go in time out for a while.
I laughed out loud at the image of your shirt, and I'm shocked no one commented. Ah, the life of an artist.
Happy belated birthday to the beautiful Olga! Many happy returns.
I don't knit set in sleeves the traditional separate way and sew them in. I pick up stitches around the armhole and knit from the top down doing short rows as I go until I reach the armhole. This is a long tutorial but you and your subscribers may find it helpful. I have shared this with friends and on Knitting Paradise with positive feedback. Marilyn Robinson
KNITTING SLEEVES DOWN
When you are instructed to bind off stitches on the shoulders to get your slope, don't bind off. Place the stitches on a holder, preferably a short circular needle. You usually have this sloping bind off in three sections. When you put the hold stitches on your hold needle, slip the first stitch of the next row before you knit or purl across. When you have all the shoulders done, match the correct ones and either do a three needle bind off or Kitchener stitch. The three needle bind off gives you a more stable shoulder line.
Leave the sides seams open. Using a circular needle pick up your sleeve stitches along the armhole edge as follows.
With the right side of your work facing you, pick up one stitch in each bound off stitch worked at the beginning of the armhole shaping of one front section. Continue picking up stitches all around the armhole and end by picking up one stitch in each bound of stitch on the back section.
To correctly space the stitches, mark the armhole edge (excluding the bound off edges) at one inch intervals. In each one inch space pick up the number of stitches that equals your stitch gauge. For example, with a five-stitch-per-inch gauge, pick up five stitches between each set of markers.
Next divide the number of stitches on your needle by three. If the number is not evenly divisible by three, allot the extra stitch(es) to the center third which comprises the top of the sleeve cap.
On the wrong side, purl across two thirds of the stitches on the needle. Turn and knit across the center third of the stitches then knit the next stitch on the needle.
Turn and purl back across the center stitches and purl the next stitch on the needle. Continue working this way, making “short rows” by working one extra stitch at each end, turning to work back after doing so, until you are working on all the picked up stitches. When this is done, you will have completed the sleeve cap smoothly and have reached the underarm.
Refer back to your pattern to note the number of stitches you would have cast on had you begun at the cuff. Subtract this number from the number of stitches you have on your needle. This gives you the number of stitches you need to decrease as you work down the arm to the cuff. Make these decreases in pairs at each end of a single knit row; at the beginning k1,sl1, k1. psso; at the end k2tog then k the last stitch. Calculate how many rows to knit and purl evenly between decrease rows using your gauge as a guide. When you reach the length you need, allowing for the length of the cuff, k2 p2 rib the cuff as long as you need it
or do a decorative cuff, whatever works for you.
You can also do the sleeves in the round once you get to the underarm, marking the underarm seam and decreasing ending up using double pointed needles or magic loop when you get to where it is too small for a 16 inch circular needle. I suggest binding off in Jeny Staiman's "Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off".
It is a nice touch to do the center underarm stitch knit through the back loop or purled to make it look more like a seam.
Thank you for this thorough explanation.
I have made set-in sleeves from the top down with short rows as you describe, but I prefer the look of a sleeve knit separately and sewn in. Knitting from the bottom up ensures that a directional stitch pattern runs in the same direction on both the body and sleeves. It also creates a cleaner join when matching stripes.
LOL. I have definitely taken myself through those arguments about why it's okay as is :)
May I cross-post this to the THREADSTACK page? I think readers will relate!
Feel free to cross-post. Thank you!
I have made so many mistakes in my knitting life that I can’t remember them all. In all cases, I’d take a deep breath and then start frogging. I’m in love with mosaic knitting. I just finished my first mosaic shawl. I still need to block it, but I just love the design. I started it through a workshop with MDK. I also have my eyes on the Waffle sweater.
Egan’s book sounds like it would be a hard read because of what is going on in this country (and in other countries as well). Today The Guardian had an article about The Base, a neo-Nazi group that is now flagrantly recruiting and gaining members because of the current FBI’s hands-off approach to domestic terrorism. Here’s the link: https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2025/jun/07/the-base-neo-nazi-group-paramilitary-training?CMP=Share_iOSApp_Other
Mosaic knitting can be an addictive technique. I've used it often, and it never seems to get old.
And thanks (?) for the link to the Guardian article. I'm horrified but not surprised. It seems like another iteration of the Proud Boys or the Oath Keepers.
I know … I avoided reading that article for a long while. I just keep reminding myself that there are more of us than them 🙂
Happy, Happy Birthday Olga!! Sandi, sorry about the sleeve shenanigans. I don’t know how your sleeve was constructed, but if possible I would maybe have tried to exaggerate the large size by reworking the bottom half as a kind of flowy bell sleeve - but there are lots of variables that would make that a bad choice.
Thanks for the suggestion, Cate. Unfortunately, This fabric (DK weight cotton/linen) wouldn't make a light, flowy bell sleeve. I don't think I'd have ended up with a cardigan I want to wear if I went in that direction.
I thought as much! I’m clueless (and inefficient) enough that I would probably have tried it to the disastrous effect that you already know would occur.
Thank you for sharing your knitting as well as your deep insights Sandi. I appreciate it so much. I am venturing into a set in sleeve design (top down) myself and good to hear some designer wisdom from you. About history being left out in school textbooks, I am constantly amazed and educating myself too. This one goes into my queue as well. Thank you.
It is my pleasure.
Happy birthday to your beautiful mom! Brain drain at the end of the day is all too familiar. Completely understand that plight! Great newsletter, Sandi!
I learned so much from that Timothy Egan book.
I think that “it’ll be okay” conversation is always the first step toward reconciliation!
Loved that book! Such an eye opener.
Such a delight to hear from you, Beth! I hope you're doing well.
Happy Birthday Olga!
For the sleeve issue, I would've been disgusted with myself and unraveled it and set it aside for a break. Then probably go back to it when I felt more confident. I did that with a sock that somehow, kept getting wider and bigger, so I unraveled it all and started over with a different sock pattern. I avoid the old pattern and don't even try to figure out what went wrong.
If I set a project aside, it could be years before I find my way back to it. If I want to finish the project (and I do!), I need to immediately get back on the horse.
Happy birthday Olga
Happiest of Birthdays to Olga!
Wishing you all the best Olga! Keep on moving and doing!
Added Fever in the Heartland to my "to read list" and the waffle sweater is already in my queue, I love Amy's designs.
I have in the past just left mistakes but the more I learn and knit I realize I just can't do it.
There are lots of mistakes I can ignore, but poor fit is not one of them.
I agree!
Ooh! Looking good Olga! Your beautiful smile makes me smile! Happy Birthday!! :-)
Sandi, Your Three-Sleeved Sweater title was an excellent bit of click bait for me! My little mind was picturing sweaters looking like elephants! :-) Bless you for telling how it happened. I have done similar things and know that 'how can I make this work' time before ripping it out. Usually once you are back to square one, it really is worth redoing. I often have to alter the shoulder portion of garments I knit for myself. I am in the habit of keeping a similar styled item of clothing that fits me close at hand to 'measure' against as I knit. This habit has served me well for things like sleeve fit, but also neck openings, shoulder seams and depth of 'v's and sweater lengths. Like you. I generally prefer a longer length, too. Looking forward to seeing how your waffle sweater comes along! Pretty knit pattern!
Thanks for sharing what you are reading, I wonder what kids will be taught about this time in the future? I wonder what is being taught about it now?
It has been many years since I had a child in school, but I'd love to be a fly on the wall in a high school civics or government class today. Do they still have those?
I have wondered if civics is taught, too. I would love to see free evening civic classes become a thing for all ages. :-)
I'd make those classes a prerequisite for voting.